The honeymoon becomes 2 trips

The short trip has a name now, the "mini-moon," and couples take it while the exhaustion of the wedding is still fresh. Then they plan a far bigger trip for a year or so later, one that increasingly points toward Africa. The proper honeymoon waits until the bills have settled and there is room to disappear for two weeks.

Travel advisors have watched the vocabulary grow. Alongside the mini-moon, there is the "pre-moon," a romantic escape taken before the wedding, and the "elope-moon," which folds the ceremony itself into the getaway. One agency reports that 6 in 10 couples now book the short trip first and hold the big one for later.

Couples are willing to wait

A safari does not fit into the days right after a wedding. It runs 10 days to two weeks and costs enough that many couples would rather wait and do it properly than rush it while they are still recovering from their own wedding costs.

Tanzania is not a cheap country to honeymoon in. Safari lodges there run from about $450 per person a night at the comfortable end to $2,500, and well beyond at the top, before flights and park fees alone, add $700 to $900 per person through a week in the northern parks. Splitting the honeymoon does not shrink that. It buys the time to pay for it.

The couples who wait are also booking differently. Many now time their honeymoon for the off-season, when lodge rates drop and the best camps are easier to get into. The other pressure is time.A safari is hard to carve out of a working calendar, and for couples who expect to have children, it is far easier to do now than in the decade before kids are old enough to come along. Waiting is not indecision; it is how couples afford the trip they want and fit it into the only window they have.

The safari comes first, in Tanzania

The trip couples keep saving for tends to follow one pattern: several days on safari, then several more on an island doing nothing at all. The safari comes first while the energy for early mornings and long drives is still there, and the beach comes after, when it is gone.

Tanzania has become the safari anchor. The country had a record year in 2025, with total arrivals up nearly 11% on the year before, and the United States is its largest overseas market, with most visitors arriving for the first time.

The couple, after the classic version, can book a camp like Nomad Tanzania, a mobile tented operation of just six canvas rooms that follows the wildebeest migration across the Serengeti, packing up and moving several times a year to stay near the herds. Camps this small book out early, which is part of why advisors report couples planning the trip well in advance, often a year or more before they travel.

The safari is not without friction that's worth understanding. Tanzania's expansion of protected land has drawn sustained criticism from human rights organizations over the displacement of Maasai communities, a reminder that the scenery a honeymoon is built around is also contested ground. The better operators can speak to it, and couples increasingly ask them to.

The island does the rest

Then comes the island, where the pace finally drops. The Seychelles has been honeymoon shorthand for decades, and it had a record year in 2025, with arrivals up 12% as the country passed its previous full-year total a month before the year even ended. Part of the appeal of the delayed trip for couples is that it takes real effort to reach, which makes the arrival feel earned.

Six Senses Zil Pasyon sits on the private island of Felicite, 30 villas set among granite boulders, with most of the island left as a national park, reachable only by helicopter or speedboat. Each villa has its own pool and very little sound beyond the water. After a week of pre-dawn game drives, that quiet is what couples came for.

Where the 2-trip honeymoon goes next

The question is no longer whether couples take the big trip, but how long they are willing to wait for it. Once the mini-moon has absorbed the pressure to travel right away, the second trip can grow more ambitious and more expensive with every month it is delayed. For a rising number of American couples, the wedding has become the down payment on a honeymoon that has not happened yet.

Mandy is a luxury travel, fine dining and bucket-list-adventure journalist with expert insight from 47 countries. She uncovers unforgettable experiences around the world and brings them to life through immersive storytelling that blends indulgence, culture and discovery, and shares them with a global audience as co-founder of Food Drink Life. Her articles appear on MSN and through the Associated Press wire in major U.S. outlets, including NBC, the Daily News, Boston Herald, the Chicago Sun-Times and many more.

The emergence of Tamworth as a queer-friendly destination is not an overnight phenomenon but the result of sustained advocacy by local organizations such as Tamworth Pride Inc. This group has worked tirelessly to create a visible presence in the city, moving queer culture from the private sphere into public spaces. By fostering a sense of safety and belonging, they have made the city an attractive alternative to the established "rainbow" hubs of Sydney or Daylesford. The city’s welcoming atmosphere is characterized by a blend of traditional country hospitality and a progressive approach to identity, making it a true hidden gem for those looking to explore the New England region.

Pride in the Park: A Day of Visibility

The "Pride in the Park" event held on July 13, 2026, served as a focal point for the local LGBTQ+ community and its allies. Held in Bicentennial Park, the event featured local performers, information stalls from health organizations, and family-friendly activities designed to promote inclusivity. The gathering was officially recognized as a significant date in the regional calendar, highlighting the increasing support from local authorities and the broader community. This event followed closely after International Non-Binary People’s Day on July 14, 2026, which saw local advocates sharing stories and resources to support gender-diverse individuals across the Tamworth region.

The park itself, located just a short walk from the iconic Golden Guitar monument, provided a symbolic backdrop for the festivities. For many queer travelers, seeing rainbow flags flying in a city known for its rugged country aesthetic is a powerful indicator of change. Participants at the event noted that the visibility of such celebrations is crucial for LGBTQ+ youth in regional areas, providing them with a sense of community that was historically difficult to find outside of major metropolitan centers. This visibility also serves as an invitation to travelers, signaling that Tamworth is a place where they can be their authentic selves while enjoying the local culture.

Intersectional Solidarity: NAIDOC and Queer Identity

Tamworth’s commitment to pride and inclusivity is also deeply connected to its First Nations history. On July 4, 2026, the city held its annual NAIDOC March, which this year carried the theme "50 Years Deadly." The event was described as a powerful walk for "pride, culture, strength, and unity," with members of the LGBTQ+ community marching in solidarity with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people. This intersectional approach to community building is a hallmark of Tamworth’s modern identity, where different marginalized groups support one another in the pursuit of equality.

The march, which moved from Viaduct Park to Bicentennial Park, emphasized that "everyone is welcome to take part," encouraging participants to bring their flags and wear their colors. For queer travelers, this demonstration of unity provides a richer cultural experience, showing that the city’s sense of pride is not limited to a single weekend or a single group but is part of a broader, community-wide effort to honor history and fight for a more inclusive future. The participation of queer First Nations people in these events highlights the diverse layers of identity that exist within the Tamworth community.

Legacy of the Letters: The Hey Vernon Project

One of the most unique aspects of Tamworth’s queer culture is the "Hey Vernon" project, an initiative that connects the city’s modern community with its often-hidden past. The project was inspired by Vernon Marshall, a local man who spent much of his life in Tamworth and became a known figure for navigating his sexuality in a much less accepting era. Decades after his activist work began, a dedicated post office box—Post Office Box 727—was established for LGBTQ+ people to share their thoughts, worries, and stories anonymously.

The Hey Vernon project serves as both a support network and a living archive of regional queer life. For visitors, the project adds a layer of immense historical depth, transforming the town from a simple highway stop into a site of cultural resilience. The act of writing a letter to Vernon allows individuals to contribute to a legacy of courage that paved the way for the visibility seen in Tamworth today.

Advocacy and Art at the Tamworth Regional Gallery

The Tamworth Regional Gallery has also emerged as a vital institution for local diversity. Cultural centers in the region have expanded their roles, prioritizing inclusive programming, safe spaces, and all-ages community events that celebrate gender-diverse residents.

This active institutional backing is key to why Tamworth is becoming a preferred spot for mindful queer travelers. The gallery’s support extends beyond one-off events; it includes the curation of inclusive regional narratives and the promotion of diverse artistic voices. Travelers visiting the gallery can see firsthand how the city is integrating diverse stories into its broader cultural tapestry, providing a welcome sense of security and validation.

From the Mardi Gras Parade to the Peel Street Pavement

Tamworth’s regional pride has even reached the global stage. In March 2023, a group of advocates from Tamworth Pride Inc participated in the iconic Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras parade. Led by William Weller, the historic 20-person float was designed to spotlight the regional queer community and show the world that country towns possess a pride community that is vibrant, local, and unashamed.

That message of visibility continues to resonate on the pavement of Tamworth today. Along Peel Street, the city’s main thoroughfare, travelers will find local businesses displaying inclusive signage and a community increasingly comfortable with its diverse identity. This momentum is set to culminate later this spring during the annual Tamworth Pride Fair Day, which brings community market stalls, food trucks, and local performers together in a celebration of regional unity. [1]

Navigating Tamworth: A Guide for the Queer Traveler

For those planning a visit, Tamworth offers an array of experiences that cater to varied interests:

• The Cultural Hub: Spend an afternoon at the Tamworth Regional Gallery to explore local exhibitions and view their community projects.


• The Main Strip: Walk down Peel Street to browse local boutique shops and dine at welcoming cafes. Keep an eye out for evening events at The Press, a favorite local spot for live music and occasional drag nights.


• Natural Landscapes: Drive up to the Oxley Scenic Lookout for a panoramic, sweeping view of the Peel Valley, or take a relaxed morning stroll along the pedestrian-friendly river paths.



• While the city proudly embraces its country music heritage, the modern Tamworth is a destination where queer travelers can enjoy rural charm exactly as they are.




The Future of Inclusivity in Regional New South Wales



The story of Tamworth is a powerful example of how regional Australia is changing. By moving beyond stereotypes and embracing its diverse population, the city has created a unique space where country culture and queer identity can coexist and thrive. The success of events like the NAIDOC March and "Pride in the Park" demonstrates that there is a strong appetite for inclusivity in the regions.

As more travelers discover the charms of this "hidden gem," the city’s reputation as a queer-friendly destination is likely to grow. The continued efforts of Tamworth Pride Inc. and the support of local institutions like the Tamworth Regional Gallery will be vital in maintaining this momentum. For now, Tamworth stands as a beacon for what is possible when a community chooses to walk together in pride, respect, and unity.

The appeal starts with scale. More than 200 restaurants sit within walking distance of Main Street, most of them locally owned. So do Falls Park on the Reedy, the head of the Swamp Rabbit Trail and the museums of Heritage Green, which means two days here can be planned almost entirely on foot. The food has drawn headlines lately: Scoundrel, a French bistro on North Main, earned the city's first Michelin Star when the guide expanded into the American South, and "Top Chef: Carolinas" filmed downtown and along the river. Base yourself at the AC Hotel in Camperdown Plaza, and the rest is a short walk.

Day 1 in Greenville

Morning

Greenville's center of gravity is Falls Park on the Reedy, a downtown park built around an actual waterfall, with the curving Liberty Bridge suspended above it. Visit early before the crowds, ideally with a steamed bagel sandwich from Sully's Steamers in hand. The Mr. Burns, stacked with sausage, egg and cheese, has a devoted following.

From the park, Main Street runs in both directions, lined with the boutiques, bookshops and coffee bars that make the argument for leaving the car at the hotel. Spend the first morning simply wandering it.

Lunch

The best introduction to the food scene is the At the Chef's Table tour led by John Nolan, a local historian who walks small groups through different kitchens and gets you a prime seat in each. The stops rotate, but expect dishes like beef carpaccio under truffle aioli at one table, and chicken and waffles finished with a maple gastrique at another, each paired with a drink and a few minutes with the chef who made it.

Unlike some food tours, you won't leave this one hungry. Nolan threads the walk with the history of the buildings between bites, so it doubles as a primer on how a faded mill town became a dining destination.

Dinner

For the first dinner, two downtown rooms make strong cases. Soby's is the New South cuisine stalwart whose 1990s opening is widely credited with starting downtown's revival, still turning out cheddar biscuits and their famous shrimp and grits. A few blocks south, Jianna features a second-floor dining room and wraparound balcony overlooking Falls Park, with house-made pasta, a deep wine list and oysters the staff will argue are the best in town. Chef Michael Kramer, who traded Los Angeles for the slower pace of Greenville, keeps it deliberately plain: Italian, good wine and no pretense. If your visit lands on a Thursday, begin the evening at NOMA Square, where Downtown Alive brings free live music and food trucks to Main Street.

Day 2 in Greenville

Morning

Start the second day outdoors on the Swamp Rabbit Trail, the 28-mile path along the Reedy where "Top Chef" staged a quickfire. Rent a bike from Reedy Rides and ride north to Unity Park, the city's newest green space, with playgrounds and open lawns on the site of a historic ballfield, or keep it to a short walk to the falls and back. Either way, work in coffee and a pastry at Camilla Kitchen, the cafe tucked inside M Judson Booksellers in the old courthouse.

Lunch

For lunch, pick from two very different settings. In the West End, a walkable district of galleries and studios across the Reedy, Papi's Kitchen on Augusta Street is the full-service follow-up to the Barrales family's beloved taqueria, where the tortas pull the midday crowd and the duck mole is the reason to come back at night.

For something closer to the water, Passerelle Bistro sits right in Falls Park, with an approachable French menu and patio dining. Ask for a table outside, well shaded by umbrellas and perched next to the falls and the park paths, for the best people-watching in town.

Afternoon

Greenville's museums cluster on the Heritage Green campus, an easy walk from Main Street, and they reward an afternoon as much as any restaurant does. The Greenville County Museum of Art leads the group with a celebrated collection of Andrew Wyeth watercolors and work by Jasper Johns, who grew up in South Carolina. Next door, the Sigal Music Museum keeps a world-class collection of historic instruments alongside rare records and sheet music, while the Upcountry History Museum walks visitors through three centuries of the region's past. Together, they make the case that 48 hours here need not be spent entirely at the table.

Dinner and evening

The second night comes down to the established or the brand new. Scoundrel, the city's Michelin-starred French bistro, is low-lit with exposed brick, a long bar and framed photos of Elvis. They're famous for their tableside beef tartare preparation, and their duck breast dish is a local favorite. Or, just go for a drink at the bar and enjoy a clarified milk-punch cocktail called the Drifter. Or go newer at Abyss, a seafood room lit like the deep end, where bubble-shaped fixtures float against blue-green walls and a prix-fixe TV Dinner menu riffs on the "Top Chef" season filmed in town.

Greenville is still on the rise. Two locals earned 2026 James Beard semifinalist nods, a season of "Top Chef" put the city on national TV and restaurants keep opening along Main Street. Two days is barely enough to scratch the surface of this postcard-perfect town, which is the best reason to come back.

This cultural shift is not merely superficial; it is backed by concrete municipal action and a thriving network of local entrepreneurs. The city has consistently aimed for high marks on the Human Rights Campaign Municipal Equality Index, joining a record-breaking 130 cities across the United States that have demonstrated an unwavering dedication to inclusivity despite restrictive state-level regulations elsewhere . Today, Lancaster stands as a premier example of how small-city America is leading the charge in civil rights and cultural acceptance.

The 2026 Pride Milestone

The summer of 2026 has been a landmark season for the local community. On June 20, 2026, the 18th Annual Lancaster Pride Festival took place at Penn Medicine Park, the home of the Lancaster Stormers. The event was a massive success, featuring live entertainment, local vendors, and a wide array of community resources dedicated to supporting LGBTQ+ health and wellness . The festival’s move to the stadium highlighted the sheer scale of the community’s growth, offering an expansive and safe environment for thousands of attendees to celebrate their identities openly .

Following the festival, the City Council of Lancaster solidified this progress through legislative recognition. During a public meeting on June 23, 2026, the council passed a formal resolution recognizing June as Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer, Intersex, and Asexual Pride Month. The resolution encouraged all residents to work toward advancing the cause of equality and fostering a safe community that appreciates diversity in all its forms for future generations . This official proclamation serves as a vital signal to both residents and visitors that the city’s leadership is committed to protecting the rights and dignity of all people, regardless of their sexual orientation or gender identity.

A Landscape of Inclusivity: Local Businesses Lead the Way

One of the most compelling reasons to visit Lancaster now is its thriving "gay-friendly" business district, where many establishments are owned and operated by members of the LGBTQ+ community. Unlike larger metropolitan areas where queer spaces are often concentrated in a single neighborhood, Lancaster’s inclusive spots are woven into the very fabric of its downtown core.

A centerpiece of this movement is The Midnight Oil, a transgender-owned and queer-run café that has become a vital social hub. The café places a heavy emphasis on creating a safe environment for people to connect, play board games, and enjoy sober social interactions—an essential resource in an area where such spaces were previously limited . The Midnight Oil is frequently cited by locals as the "top choice" for those seeking a welcoming atmosphere without the pressure of a traditional bar scene .

For those seeking fine dining, the city offers several high-end, LGBTQ-owned and affirming options. 401 Prime, a premier modern steakhouse, and The Belvedere Inn known for its award-winning American cuisine and elegant atmosphere, both served as official hosts for the 2026 "Uptown Pride After Party" . These businesses demonstrate that LGBTQ+ entrepreneurship is driving the city’s economic and culinary revitalization. Other notable stops include Pocket Books, a bookstore owned by queer women, and Farbo Co, a queer-owned gaming and hobby shop that serves as a cornerstone for local geek culture .

Community Beyond the Parade

The spirit of inclusivity in Lancaster extends well beyond the month of June. Tonight, July 13, 2026, the community continues its summer of celebration with a Free Community Pool Party at the Conestoga Pines Pool from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. Hosted by Lancaster Pride, the event is designed to provide a relaxed, affirming space for LGBTQ+ individuals and allies to cool off and connect .

This commitment to year-round engagement is further evidenced by initiatives like "Pride on the Conestoga," a collaboration with the Conestoga River Club during Lancaster Water Week, which integrates environmental stewardship with queer visibility . Additionally, organizations like the Keystone Business Alliance work tirelessly to bridge the gap between the LGBTQ+ community and the broader local economy, ensuring that diverse-owned businesses have the support they need to thrive .

A Travel Destination for Everyone

For the LGBTQ+ traveler, Lancaster offers the rare combination of small-town charm and big-city progressiveness. The city is highly walkable, with a dense collection of galleries, boutiques, and cafes that are "openly supportive" of the queer community . While the surrounding rural landscape remains more conservative, the city itself acts as a safe harbor, where rainbow flags are a common sight and gender-neutral bathrooms are becoming the standard in local haunts like Little Mutants .

Whether you are visiting for the 18-year-old Pride tradition, the unique transgender-owned shopping experiences, or simply to enjoy a meal at an affirming steakhouse, Lancaster provides a travel experience that is both culturally rich and socially conscious. As more LGBTQ+ people seek out inclusive communities in less traditional areas, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, is standing tall as a model for the future of the American small city.

Dozens of Santas, Mrs. Clauses and elves from around the world have descended on Denmark's fourth-largest city for the Nordic nation’s annual World Santa Claus Congress, a colorful midsummer tradition for decades.

First staged at an amusement park near Copenhagen in 1957, the congress moved to Aalborg on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula two years ago. This year, the Santa suits looked a little stifling under the Danish summer sun.

The event, which marks its 70th anniversary next year, was created to entertain children, but became a popular gathering for Santas who appear in stores and shopping malls during the Yuletide season.

The gathering offers a chance for professional Santas — not the real one, of course! — to swap stories, compare beards, sharpen their craft and compete in lighthearted contests months before anyone checks naughty-or-nice lists for the Christmas rush.

The packed agenda features events like gingerbread eating, gift wrapping, balloon modeling, and several noisy parades.

“The grandmas say: ‘Oh, it’s too early to come here’," said organizer Peter Gislund, himself a Santa Claus in Aalborg during the Christmas season. “The kids say: 'Hooray! Santa’s here already'.”

Christmas as a state of mind, not just a season

Over the years, the annual four-day gathering has attracted Santas and Mrs. Clauses from as far away as Australia, Hong Kong, Canada and the United States.

Most of the three dozen or so Santas and Mrs. Clauses at the congress this week hail from Scandinavia, but some flew in — like Paradise Yamamoto from Tokyo.

“This is very fun, so many children … Ho, ho, ho!” said Yamamoto with a laugh after parading through Aalborg waving a Japanese flag and dancing to the song "Feliz Navidad” — one of many Christmas classics played during the event.

Robert Hercz, a 64-year-old Norwegian Santa from Oslo, said that despite their different nationalities, all Santas on hand share “a gene” — for generosity and spreading joy.

“You have it or you don’t,” said Hercz, who was attending the congress for the first time. “We have the true Santa spirit. And it’s all about giving, sharing, and putting a little bit of joy in people’s hearts.”

It’s not all ho-ho-ing and belly rubs.

“When Santas are together, they always mingle and talk a little bit,” said Gislund. “Maybe I put a little bit of sparkle in the beard and so on. That’s the good part of meeting some Santas from all over the world.”

For Simon Brøns, a 33-year-old Danish Santa, the event is proof that the festive spirit isn’t just for Christmas.

“Christmas is not a season. It’s a feeling you have in your stomach," he said with a smile. "So if you want, you can have Christmas the whole year.”

The festivities culminated in a massive Pride Parade that saw more than 13,000 participants take to the streets, a record-breaking turnout for the city that underscores its growing status as a destination of choice for LGBTQ+ travelers looking beyond the traditional hubs of Madrid or Berlin. The procession began at White Tower Square , winding through the heart of the city along Ethnikis Aminis, Tsimiski, and Venizelou streets before returning via the scenic Nikis Avenue waterfront.

The atmosphere was described by local organizers as electric, characterized by a "rainbow river" of people of all ages, including families, youth, and elderly activists. The "Break the Code" slogan served as a dual-purpose message: both a celebration of the unique identities within the community and a demand for continued progress in a society that is rapidly evolving but still navigating deep-seated traditional influences.

A Cultural Crossroads for Queer Travelers

Unlike the high-octane, commercialized queer scenes of Mykonos or Santorini, Thessaloniki offers a more grounded and culturally rich experience. Known as the "Lady of the North," the city is Greece’s second-largest urban center and a major student hub, home to the Aristotle University. This youthful energy feeds into a queer scene that is artistic, political, and fiercely authentic.

The 14th Thessaloniki Pride was not merely a parade but a week-long cultural festival that began on June 15, 2026. The program included book presentations, experiential workshops, and open-air interventions in public spaces designed to engage the broader citizenry. On the waterfront, the "Pride Fair" provided a platform for various human rights organizations and local businesses to showcase their support and services for the LGBTQ+ community.

The entertainment lineup for the closing concert on June 20 reflected the city's diverse tastes. Performances featured a mix of mainstream pop stars and underground queer icons. Popular singers such as Tamta, Evangelia, Lionder, Laffis, and Mikay took the stage at the White Tower, supported by high-energy dance groups like House of Drama and The Mode.

The drag performances, a perennial highlight of the Thessaloniki scene, featured local and national talents including Raw Bee Candles, Fatality, Heelcat, Katina Bella, and Mystic Van Rouge. These artists represent a burgeoning Greek drag culture that blends traditional Balkan aesthetics with modern queer activism, often using their platform to speak on issues of transgender rights and social acceptance.

Progress in the Cradle of Democracy

The backdrop to this year’s Pride is Greece’s significant shift in LGBTQ+ policy. Since early 2024, when Greece became the first Orthodox Christian country to legalize same-sex marriage and adoption, the social landscape for LGBTQ+ people has undergone a visible transformation. While legislation has provided a new level of security, the community in Thessaloniki continues to advocate for more comprehensive protections against hate speech and discrimination.

The participation of the Diversity Charter Greece in the 2026 Pride events signaled a growing commitment from the corporate sector to foster inclusive workplaces. More than 13,000 attendees, including representatives from various social and political bodies, sent a resounding message against discrimination and homophobia.

Local activists emphasize that Thessaloniki’s identity is inextricably linked to its history as a multicultural crossroads. This historical "openness" is being reclaimed by the queer community to create a space where transgender people and gender-nonconforming individuals can navigate the city with increasing confidence.

The Heartbeat of Valaoritou and Beyond

For the queer traveler, Thessaloniki’s charm lies in its "walkability" and its hidden pockets of community. The Valaoritou district, once a commercial textile hub, has transformed into the city's nightlife epicenter. It is home to Enola , a legendary queer club that has anchored the community for nearly two decades. Following the official Pride Parade on June 20, Enola hosted the primary "After-Pride Party," featuring drag shows by Helena Hudson and Fatality that lasted until the early hours of the morning.

Beyond the organized events, the city offers a wealth of queer-friendly spaces. The waterfront, stretching from the White Tower to the Thessaloniki Concert Hall, is a public living room where the community gathers for coffee—a serious local pastime. Bars and cafes in the Ladadika and Valaoritou areas are known for their inclusive atmosphere, often flying rainbow flags year-round.

The city's status as the host of EuroPride in 2024 left a lasting legacy of infrastructure and visibility that is still evident today. The 2026 festival proved that the momentum has not faded; rather, it has matured. Thessaloniki is no longer just a "gay-friendly" stopover; it is a destination where queer culture is woven into the very fabric of the city’s resurgence.

A Vision for the Future

As the 14th Thessaloniki Pride concluded, the message from the "Break the Code" campaign remained clear: visibility is the first step toward true equality. By inviting travelers to explore its streets, the city is not just promoting tourism but building a more inclusive Europe. For those looking for a destination that offers history, vibrant nightlife, and a soulful, activist-led community, Thessaloniki is the hidden gem that is finally coming into the light.

The success of the June 2026 events suggests that Thessaloniki will continue to grow as a beacon of LGBTQ+ pride in the Mediterranean, challenging older narratives and inviting everyone to "break the code" of what a queer-friendly city can be.

It marks the 100th anniversary of the publication of Ernest Hemingway ’s book “The Sun Also Rises” that launched the future Nobel Laureate to literary fame and put Pamplona on the map for millions of people around the world.

On Monday, the festival kicked off with a firework blast over a jam-packed plaza. The first of eight bull runs is on Tuesday.

Hemingway’s 1926 novella captivated generations of readers with its sexy Jazz Age tale of American and British bohemians trying to fill some inner void with the distractions of exotic travel, vast quantities of alcohol and the anguishing pursuit of impossible love.

Its success established “The Sun Also Rises” as a cornerstone of the American literary canon, right up there with F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “The Great Gatsby.” It also popularized the term “lost generation” to describe the tight-knit group of early 20th-century writers expatriated in Paris. Hemingway's terse style forever changed American literature. In Spanish, its title is translated as “Fiesta.”

Hillmann, who hails from Chicago, was 19 when Hemingway’s vivid depiction of the bull running festival first enthralled him, especially descriptions of average Spaniards risking their lives sprinting through the streets to guide the bulls to the bull ring during the nine-day festival. It kicks off with a firework blast over a packed plaza on Monday, and the first of eight bull runs is on Tuesday.

“It was the first book I ever read,” Hillmann told The Associated Press in Pamplona as he looked down on the pen where the bulls are held before being set free on the cobblestoned route. “I sat there for about six hours, well past midnight, reading the book. And by the time I was done with that book, I was going to be a writer and I was going to be a bull runner.”

Since that literary encounter, the 44-year-old Hillmann has run with the bulls in Spain hundreds of times, counting both his trips to Pamplona and his participation in dozens more bull runs in other Spanish towns. His infatuation with Hemingway and Pamplona has never waned, even though he nearly died one time that he was gored by a bull horn.

Hillmann’s appreciation led him to earn a doctorate in English, and now it is his turn to teach “The Sun Also Rises” at East-West University in Chicago, and write about bull running.

Americans are the biggest group of foreign bull runners

Hillmann is just one of many Americans inspired to travel to Spain to see the festival firsthand. While running with bulls is a cherished local custom for Spanish daredevils, Americans are still the leading group of foreigners who run at the San Fermin festival. In 2022, 16% of the bull runners were Americans, the largest percentage among foreigners and four times more than those from neighboring France, according to Pamplona’s City Hall.

Dallas-based tour operator Bruce Anderson, whose company “Running Of The Bulls” has helped thousands of Americans attend San Fermin over the years, says that Hemingway’s work made the festival a bucket-list destination. This year, his company is bringing 1,400 people to the festival, with over two-thirds from the United States.

“There’s a lot of energy, a lot of excitement around just remembering that book and the impact that it’s had,” said Anderson, himself a lifelong Hemingway fan. He spoke in Pamplona’s art deco Café Iruña, which features heavily as a drinking spot in “The Sun Also Rises” and today houses a life-size statue of Hemingway bellying up to the bar.

And Anderson, with his thick white beard, is something of a Hemingway look-alike. Local Spaniards often call out to him: “Papa!” – a nickname for their adopted hero.

It is impossible to avoid Hemingway in Pamplona

Hemingway is etched into the landscape of Pamplona. Hotels and bars have busts of him or signs up that he was once there. Outside the Pamplona bull ring, which also has a statue of the writer, a huge banner hangs in honor of the novel, including a quote that shows how the festival left the writer speechless: “At noon of Sunday, the 6th of July, the fiesta exploded. There is no other way to describe it.”

When Hemingway made his last visits to Pamplona, he would frequent the Perla Hotel; his suite still has furniture from the 1950s when he stayed there. The room, which overlooks the bull run route, also has two glass book cases holding dozens of copies of “The Sun Also Rises.”

“Hemingway did a lot for Pamplona because he made it known around the world,” said Fernando Hualde, who worked for four decades as a receptionist in the hotel.

Hemingway’s legacy has become complicated over time

Hemingway’s local legacy, however, is mixed.

Beside a feminist critique of his hyper masculine public persona, Hemingway has drawn criticism from the animal rights movement for his praise of bull fighters. In “The Sun Also Rises,” he spills far more ink on descriptions of their bravery than on the bull runs.

Animal welfare activist Brook Spurling said during a protest against the San Fermin bullfights that “Hemingway wrote about many, many themes that today would not be accepted into society. He writes about hunting, about war, and we don’t want to be appreciating these themes today.”

Hualde says that some Pamplona residents rue his early promotion of the festival due to the ills of overtourism the sleepy provincial city is now experiencing.

Pamplona has 200,000 residents and receives over a million more people for the festival. While most are Spaniards, around 15% of the revelers are from abroad. And many, especially the younger visitors, follow Hemingway’s example of drinking to excess.

Some locals take pride in spots that weren’t touched by Hemingway. Local literature professor Gabriel Insausti of Pamplona’s University of Navarra recalls being in a bar with a sign that read “Hemingway was not here.”

“In general, Hemingway has become a product of a franchise associated with San Fermin festival that has obscured his novel,” Insausti said. “People know who Hemingway is, but they haven’t read his novel.”

But the power of Hemingway’s English prose lives on

Hillmann said that the high percentage of inexperienced foreigners today makes the Pamplona bull runs particularly dangerous. The last death was in 2009 but gorings and other injuries are common. Novice runners can easily panic and make a wrong move that can cause a pileup or send someone into the path of a bull.

He was badly gored in 2014 when he said a bad maneuver by a fellow runner left him exposed to a bull. He thought he was dying, such was the quantity of blood gushing from his leg.

After another goring in 2017, Hillmann told the AP from his hospital bed in Pamplona that he would not stop running. “People think this is just crazy people running. There is real art. If you pay attention, you can see it,” he said then.

Hemingway's granddaughter, the actress Mariel Hemingway, recalls being treated “like royalty” when she attended San Fermin years ago. Mariel, who has written and spoken about her grandfather as a sufferer of mental illness that led to his suicide in 1961, is convinced his work will endure.

That fascination with death is likewise timeless.

“Identity, love, purpose, and how to rebuild after profound loss ... those themes haven’t ever changed. That’s what’s great about my grandfather,” Mariel Hemingway told the AP from her home in Idaho.

“I think he captured something that will never go away.”

The Incident and Official Justification

The conflict began when authorities in Turkey’s Aydın province, where the popular port town of Kuşadası is located, published an official statement online announcing that the cruise’s arrival had been revoked [CNN, The Guardian]. The statement claimed that the ship was chartered by groups "known for behaviors that do not align with the structure of our society and our moral values" [CNN]. Furthermore, local officials alleged that the scheduled arrival of the Scarlet Lady had "sparked significant public concern," leading to the conclusion that there was "absolutely no possibility of the group in question visiting our province for an event of this nature" [CNN].

The Scarlet Lady was originally scheduled to embark from Athens, Greece, on July 5, 2026, and arrive in Kuşadası on July 7, 2026, followed by a stay in Istanbul [CNN, The Washington Post]. However, the late-notice ban forced Atlantis Events to radically alter the ten-day itinerary while the ship was already preparing for departure [The Washington Post]. According to Rich Campbell, the CEO of Atlantis Events, this is the first time in the company’s 36-year history that a destination has explicitly barred a vessel based on the identity of its passengers [CNN, The Washington Post]. Campbell noted that while the company has faced logistical hurdles in the past, they had never been "actively told we may not berth here because of who we are" [The Washington Post].

Passenger Reactions and On-Board Sentiment

The decision has left many of the 2,000 passengers—more than half of whom are American—expressing shock and disappointment [The Washington Post]. Among the high-profile individuals on board is legendary Broadway performer Patti LuPone, who is performing during the voyage [CNN]. LuPone took to social media to express her frustration, writing, "A ship – a magnificent ship – full of gay men. And me. Denied entry to Turkey simply because of who is on board" [CNN].

Randy Slovacek, a passenger and journalist who spoke with CNN’s Ben Hunte, highlighted the irony and suddenness of the ban, noting that Turkey has long been a popular destination for LGBTQ+ travelers despite the country's complex relationship with human rights [CNN]. The unexpected nature of the refusal meant that many travelers had already booked land excursions in Istanbul and Kuşadası, including tours of the ancient city of Ephesus, which have now been cancelled without recourse to the original plans [CNN].

Political and Legal Context in Turkey

Homosexuality has been legal in Turkey since 1858, following the decriminalization of same-sex acts during the Ottoman Empire [The Guardian]. Despite this long-standing legal status, the political climate for LGBTQ+ people in Turkey has grown increasingly hostile over the last decade [The Guardian]. The Turkish government, under the leadership of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, has frequently employed rhetoric that characterizes LGBTQ+ identities as a threat to traditional Turkish "family values" [The Guardian].

Pride parades in major cities such as Istanbul have been consistently banned since 2015, often on the grounds of "security" or "public morality" [The Guardian]. Observers note that the specific targeting of a cruise ship—a major source of tourism revenue—marks a significant escalation in the government's willingness to enforce its "moral standards" at the expense of the economy [The Guardian]. The ship’s operator, Virgin Voyages, which is backed by billionaire Richard Branson, had not anticipated such a blanket ban, given that individual LGBTQ+ travelers continue to visit Turkey regularly [CNN, The Guardian].

Itinerary Changes and International Implications

Following the ban, Atlantis Events informed passengers that the Scarlet Lady would instead call at the port of Alexandria, Egypt, and the Greek island of Crete [The Washington Post]. The pivot to Egypt has been met with mixed reactions from passengers, as Egypt also possesses a documented history of targeting LGBTQ+ individuals under "debauchery" laws, leading some to question the safety and logic of the new route [CNN].

Rich Campbell stated that the company worked tirelessly to find alternatives that would still provide a high-quality experience for the guests while ensuring their safety and dignity [The Washington Post]. The logistical feat of re-routing a ship of the Scarlet Lady’s size—which is tracked by services like MarineTraffic—on such short notice is considerable, involving new port fees, security arrangements, and shore excursion logistics.

Broader Impacts on LGBTQ+ Tourism

The incident has sparked a broader conversation about the risks faced by LGBTQ+ travelers, even when traveling with established companies like Atlantis Events or Virgin Voyages [The Washington Post]. Travel experts suggest that this event could lead to a chilling effect on LGBTQ+ tourism in the region, as travelers may seek destinations with more robust legal protections and a more welcoming social atmosphere.

For the American travelers on board, the situation serves as a stark reminder of the varying degrees of acceptance worldwide. While the U.S. State Department has not issued a specific travel advisory regarding this incident, it generally advises LGBTQ+ travelers to remain aware of local laws and social customs that may differ significantly from those in the United States. As of July 6, 2026, representatives of the central Turkish government in Ankara have yet to issue a national-level comment on the matter, leaving the Aydın province's statement as the primary official explanation for the ban [The Guardian].

Safety and Hospitality Concerns

The decision to block the ship has also been criticized by local tourism operators in Kuşadası and Istanbul, who have reportedly expressed private concerns about the loss of revenue and the negative impact on Turkey's image as a global tourism hub. With over 2,000 high-spending tourists redirected to other countries, the local economic loss is estimated to be significant, particularly for the luxury retail and hospitality sectors in the port areas.

As the Scarlet Lady continues its journey through the Mediterranean, bypassing the Turkish coast, the international LGBTQ+ community continues to monitor the situation. The event highlights the precarious balance between international commerce and local political agendas, especially concerning marginalized groups. For now, the passengers on board the "epic all-gay voyage" will spend their time in Alexandria and Crete, far from the ports that deemed their presence a threat to national "moral standards" [CNN]..