Chef Val Cantú and his team at Californios in San Francisco have earned a historic third Michelin star, the first for a Mexican restaurant worldwide
After an eight-year wait, the historic third Michelin star that chef and co-owner Val Cantú and his team at San Francisco's Californios craved is theirs. It's a first for any Mexican restaurant worldwide. So it's understandable he and his 40-person staff have more swagger.
The feat caps a trajectory that began with Cantu getting his first star right out of the gate when Californios opened in 2015. He got a second one in 2018. At a June ceremony in San Diego, Cantú, with his wife Carolyn by his side, received his third star and a crisp white Michelin chef's jacket.
The accolade feels like validation not just for Californios but for the notion that Mexican food in Mexico and across the diaspora can be an elevated experience. Similar to fine dining Chinese restaurants just a few miles away from Californios, Mexican American restaurants have dealt with criticism for daring to charge more and offering tasting menus. Meanwhile, few bat an eye at French and Japanese restaurants with similar prices.
Shoot for the Michelin stars
The Michelin Guide, started in 1889 by French brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin, created a star-ranking system in the 1920s. Today, the guide has ratings for over 40,000 restaurants. To evaluate a restaurant, Michelin sends inspectors to dine anonymously. The inspectors said Californios ascended the ranks because it has never been “afraid to cross borders” on the plate, according to Michelin’s website.
From the first bite, Californios patrons experience the Texas-born Cantú's blend of Mexican culture with California ingredients. He starts a meal with a sope, a small hand-formed masa cake made with white corn and beans from a farm in nearby Santa Rosa. Then, with a spatula, caviar made in partnership with a Sacramento sturgeon farm is carefully placed on top.
“It’s just really, really delicious and kind of feels like a warm hug,” Cantú said. “It feels comforting.”
Michelin inspectors agreed.
Californios deserved a three-star promotion, one of five inspectors said, for dishes consistently “executed with such precision, refinement and clarity without losing the Mexican identity — things like kombu or the matsukasa yaki fish taco.”
Sometimes Cantú and his team would try to guess if a diner could be an inspector. That turned out to be a good reminder that “every guest gets the same quality of presentation and hospitality,” the chef said.
Mexican food's growing recognition comes as immigration enforcement gets harsher
In the past few years, Michelin has starred a number of Mexican restaurants including a 10-by-10 foot (3-by-3 meter) taco stand in Mexico City. The growing recognition comes at a precarious time for immigration enforcement policies and the treatment of immigrants — even those in the U.S. legally.
Not someone who seeks to inject politics into food, Cantú could not ignore constant headlines about federal immigration operations — some of which have resulted in deaths including a Mexican man in Houston and a Colombian man in Maine earlier this month. Immigrants are “the backbone of all these dish pits and kitchens,” says Cantú. He has shown support through gestures. In March, he collaborated on an “anti-ICE” fundraising dinner.
“The culinary world is like a huge supporter of immigrants and the need for immigrants and the need to treat people with respect,” Cantú said. “It’s hard for me to say much more.”
Being in a blue state, Cantú is certain most of Californios’ diners share that sentiment.
Gustavo Arellano, a food writer and journalist who’s also Mexican American, believes the cuisine’s popularity really helps humanize the immigration debate.
“You see this especially like in small Southern towns where the rhetoric is ‘I’m against illegal immigrants. I don’t want too many Mexicans,'” Arellano said. “But, then they look at the Mexican restaurant in town and they’re like ‘Well, not them.’”
Californios shows Mexican food is just as worthy of fine dining
Growing up, Cantú watched his father and uncle in Texas run a Mexican restaurant and tortilleria. As a chef working at high-end establishments in Austin and San Francisco, he found himself asking, “Why is no one doing Mexican cuisine and treating it with like extreme care?”
Inspired by the Bay Area, he settled on the name Californios. It's a nod to descendants of Spanish and Mexican settlers who settled in the 1700s and 1800s in what would become California.
Californios started with a $57 four-course tasting menu. The pushback was immediate.
“There was ton of like, ‘This is not Mexican cuisine,’” Cantú said. “Even from our families, you know, trying to explain a contemporary cuisine to a lot of people is totally foreign because people kind of think that cuisine exists in a cookbook and that it doesn’t change.”
Californios is at the forefront of what some call “alta California” cuisine, where the children of Mexican immigrants or immigrants themselves use classical chef training with Mexican flavors. The term refers to the former Spanish province north of Baja California; Arellano describes it as an “ideology” that originated in California and has spread across the U.S.
Raised flavor profiles and prices ultimately raise skepticism. Arellano argues people think this way partly because they're trying to keep Mexican food in a box.
“There's always going to be a knee-jerk reaction,” Arellano said. “It goes to this myth that Mexican food should be cheap because Mexicans, all of us are supposedly working class that cannot afford higher-end stuff. That's classist.”
Cantú plans to keep bringing attention to his Mexican-California brand of fine dining. A cookbook is in the works.
“Mexican cuisine is one of the most diverse and complex cuisines in the world,” Cantú said, “and there’s countless Mexican immigrants in the United States and Latin immigrants who have their own ideas and concepts of what things can be.”
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Ski Enthusiasts Flock to Sub-Saharan Africa and a Snowy Mountain Resort in Lesotho
Lesotho attracts thousands each winter to its unique ski resort, the only such tourist attraction in sub-Saharan Africa
One may not expect thousands to flock each winter to Lesotho but for many ski enthusiasts from across southern Africa, the small, landlocked mountain kingdom has become the go-to place in recent years.
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A Wave of New US Flights Turns Belize Into the Caribbean's Easiest Reef-and-Ruins Trip
Tourism in Belize is projected to top pre-COVID tourism numbers by more than 10%. That record-breaking tourism, driven by expanding U.S. air service and a major airport modernization, has transformed Belize into one of the Caribbean's fastest-growing destinations for American travelers.
Tourism in Belize is projected to top pre-COVID tourism numbers by more than 10%. That record-breaking tourism, driven by expanding U.S. air service and a major airport modernization, has transformed Belize into one of the Caribbean's fastest-growing destinations for American travelers.
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A Centuries-Old Festival in Japan Brings Shinto Traditions and Towering Floats to the Streets
In Japan, the Gion Matsuri festival brings towering floats to the streets in Shinto religious processions that are rooted in rituals dating back more than 1,000 years and that were intended to ward off epidemics
There’s a special moment when Katsushi Horikawa feels closer to the gods. It comes as he rides atop one of the towering floats pulled through the streets in a centuries-old procession in Japan.
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Americans Are Splitting the Honeymoon in 2, and the Trip They Are Saving for Is a Safari
The wedding is over, and the couple has already taken a quick trip away, a long weekend somewhere warm and close. The honeymoon itself is still to come. More American couples are splitting the tradition into two: a short getaway right after the wedding and a much bigger trip planned months or a year later, and the latter increasingly points toward Africa.
The wedding is over, and the couple has already taken a quick trip away, a long weekend somewhere warm and close. The honeymoon itself is still to come. More American couples are splitting the tradition into two: a short getaway right after the wedding and a much bigger trip planned months or a year later, and the latter increasingly points toward Africa.
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Beyond the Golden Guitar: Tamworth’s Quiet Evolution into Australia’s Hidden Queer Sanctuary
The regional city of Tamworth, New South Wales, is successfully moving beyond its traditional country music identity to establish itself as a welcoming and emerging hub for LGBTQ+ travelers.
Tamworth, New South Wales, has long been synonymous with the strumming of acoustic guitars and the wide-brimmed hats of the annual Country Music Festival. However, the regional city is increasingly recognized for a different kind of vibrancy: its growing and resilient LGBTQ+ community. Traditionally viewed as a conservative rural stronghold, Tamworth is undergoing a quiet revolution, transforming into a lesser-known but deeply welcoming destination for queer travelers seeking an authentic regional Australian experience without the exclusion of the past.
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48 Hours in Greenville, South Carolina: Food, Trails and Art in a Walkable Downtown
For years, Greenville, South Carolina, was a city travelers flew over on the way to somewhere better known, but lately it has become a destination in its own right. Tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Upstate town has built a compact, walkable downtown around a waterfall park, a 28-mile rail trail and a cluster of museums, then added a food scene good enough to earn its first Michelin Star and host a season of "Top Chef."
For years, Greenville, South Carolina, was a city travelers flew over on the way to somewhere better known, but lately it has become a destination in its own right. Tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Upstate town has built a compact, walkable downtown around a waterfall park, a 28-mile rail trail and a cluster of museums, then added a food scene good enough to earn its first Michelin Star and host a season of "Top Chef." Forty-eight hours is enough to eat well, get outside and take in the art, mostly without touching the car.
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Red County, Rainbow City: The Queer Renaissance of Lancaster, Pennsylvania
While often associated with its pastoral Amish heritage, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, has rapidly transformed into one of the most LGBTQ+ affirming small cities in North America.
Lancaster, Pennsylvania, is a city defined by its striking contrasts. For decades, travelers have flocked to the region for its rolling farmland and the traditional lifestyle of the Amish community. However, as of Monday, July 13, 2026, the city’s narrative is being rewritten by a vibrant, visible, and growing LGBTQ+ community that has turned this historic hub into a modern sanctuary. Located in a county that has historically leaned conservative, the city of Lancaster—with a population of approximately 58,000 residents—has emerged as a "shining beacon of hope" for LGBTQ+ individuals across the Mid-Atlantic .
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Ho, Ho, Hot: Santas Gather for a Summer Celebration
Santas, Mrs. Clauses, and elves from around the world have gathered in Aalborg, Denmark, for the annual World Santa Claus Congress
While Europe's still in the throes of summer heat, it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas in the Danish city of Aalborg.
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Sip, Savor & Stay: An LGBTQ+ Escape to Santa Maria Valley
Psst! Can you keep a secret? There’s a hidden gem along California’s Central Coast that delivers everything travelers love about the Golden State—award-winning wine, scenic beaches, incredible food, and laid-back charm—without the sky-high prices or overwhelming crowds.
Psst! Can you keep a secret? There’s a hidden gem along California’s Central Coast that delivers everything travelers love about the Golden State—award-winning wine, scenic beaches, incredible food, and laid-back charm—without the sky-high prices or overwhelming crowds. Nestled between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, Santa Maria Valley is the kind of destination where LGBTQ+ travelers can truly unwind, connect, and explore at their own pace.
Whether you’re planning a romantic same-sex couples’ getaway, a fun trip with chosen family, or a solo recharge filled with wine and wellness, Santa Maria Valley offers a warm, welcoming vibe that feels refreshingly authentic.
Santa Maria Valley is one of the world’s most dynamic wine-growing regions, producing complex and beautifully balanced wines thanks to its unique coastal climate. The region is especially celebrated for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah, though adventurous wine lovers will find plenty of varietals worth sipping.
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